Day 16 Kilimanjaro – Oct 11, 2013 Ngorongoro Crater

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I woke up around 6:30am and was in awe of the view out the window overlooking Lake Manyara. Each small black dot I saw I imagined was a hippo or an elephant. It really was quite magical.

During breakfast Sian and Jim decided against a game drive back at Lake Manyara. We commented on how we are getting too blasé as we had such good luck spotting so many animals in our first two days.

I contacted John and he said they would return for us around 2:30pm for our short drive to Ngorongoro Crater. We were thrilled to have the opportunity to fully enjoy the hotel facilities. Following the fantastic breakfast, I went back to the patio off the room and blogged to my hearts content until checkout time. Still too early for lunch (yes there is an enormous amount of eating happening) I went to the pool area to finish my writing.

At noon we met in the dining area for our lunch. It was buffet style with an incredible amount of variety to choose from. We did as the French do, have a course and then rest in between and then go up for the next course. We managed to stretch it out for over two hours and had a very pleasant time.

On the strike of 2:30pm, John met us at our table. Now that we had rested we were excited to carry on our journey to the Ngorongoro Crater and were on the road by 2:45pm.

The views enroute to the Ngorongoro Conservation Area were incredible. On the left of the Land Rover was the great Rift Valley and Lake Manyara and before too long we had views of the actual crater on the right!

We stopped at the Conservation Area gate and went inside to have a look around while Ricky and Livingston organized the permits. About 15 minutes through the gate, we come to the lookout point. Here we get our first glimpse of the massive Ngorongoro Crater (260 sq km). We take photos and the head across the road for photos of the great Rift Valley. Absolutely amazing!

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The main feature of the Ngorongoro Conservation Authority is the Ngorongoro Crater, the world’s largest inactive, intact, and unfilled volcanic caldera. The crater, which formed when a large volcano exploded and collapsed on itself two to three million years ago, is 610m deep and its floor covers 260km2.

The Ngorongoro Conservation Area also protects Olduvai Gorge, situated in the plains area. It is considered to be the seat of humanity after the discovery of the earliest known specimens of the human genus, some 3-5 million years ago.

We carried on the crater rim road and pulled into the Ngorongoro Wildlife Lodge. It is a beautiful old property and reminded both Jim and I of the Japer Park Lodge, lots of stone and polished wood. And the view from both our rooms and the dining room is the picture above in this post. It was absolutely stunning!

Once checked in we relaxed in the comfy chairs of our room, chatted and gazed out at the magnificent view. Dinner starts at 6:30pm and as we are not ones to miss a meal, we wandered up to the dining room.

We decided to have a drink on the patio first and threw the bar staff for a loop when we asked for Amarula (similar to Baileys), Grand Marnier and coffee, all in one cup! It was yummy and as the evening air was chilly, it warmed us up. Before our first sip the waitress shouted, did you see our elephants? Right below us on the hotel lawn were two bull elephants grazing away – so awesome!

Finally we went into the dining room and had a very nice buffet meal although none of us were too hungry. By 9:00pm or so we were back in our rooms and snugly tucked in bed. Looking forward for the ride down into the Crater tomorrow!

Day 15 Kilimanjaro – Oct 10, 2013 Lake Maynara

                 

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Morning came early and shortly after 9:00am we were on our way to Arusha town and then on to Lake Manyara. First stop was a great little store where we made some souvenir purchases. John pointed out the perfect T-shirt for me that says ‘Shida Happens’ – you can imagine what it says in English! And the best part of all, it is in my neon green, how perfect is that.

Next stop is to pick up Livingston and head out of town. The drive to Lake Manyara is the same direction as Tarangire and you guessed it, we are in for more ‘African’ massages as the road construction and diversions haven’t changed much since last week. Possibly Ricky is a better driver or we are getting used to the roads as I didn’t notice the ruts and bumps as much.

We arrived at what I thought was a shopping or lunch spot but as it turns out it was our hotel for the night. We had initially decided on a one night camping safari in Manyara and then a hotel stay for the second night in Ngorongoro. When we came down from Kili, we had enough of camping so John called the hotels in the area to get us rooms. This had been the only one available. It just wasn’t what we had paid for so we checked again with the Serena Hotel and we were in luck – it was available! Although at a bit of a premium but was it worth it.

It was 5* luxury and the meals were fantastic! We had great rooms that overlooked Lake Manyara and the Rift Valley. The pool was an infinity pool complete with bar and patio. The rooms were small cottages with patios and grandiose mosquito nets over the bed. I felt I was on the set of a romantic African movie.

After checking in, we jumped back in the Land Cruiser and headed to Lake Manyara National Park to see if we could spot a Hippo or two. We saw scores of baboons, zebras, Cape buffalo, impala and an elephant (yes a lone elephant) but no Hippos. Close to sunset we went back to the hotel to get ready for dinner.

Dinner was a rather formal affair with full waiter service, and a very humorous waiter at that. His name was hard to remember as it was so unique and he looked Maasai to me, however he was too small to be Maasai. He told us that he had personally caught a wart hog that day so that we could have bacon tomorrow morning with our ostrich eggs. He joked with such a straight face that he was almost believable and really enhanced our evening!

Finally around 10:00pm we headed back to our lovely rooms and to bed.

Day 6 Kilimanjaro Safari – Tembos and Simbas – Oct 1, 2013

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We are pumped as we are off to Tarangire on safari. Livingston (or Ziggy as John calls him) meets us at 6:30am. We pick up our breakfast boxes, meet our driver Justin and I comment ‘just like Justin Bieber?’. This gets a lovely giggle from Justin and we load up the Land Cruiser and are off.

We drop Livingston and one of his staff off at their office in Arusha town and start our journey to Tarangire. We head west of Arusha past Maasai farms, goat and cattle herders dressed in their colourful gear. Everyone from the smallest child to elderly care for their animals. The Maasai are a nomadic people and therefore live in mud huts so that they can move where water and food for their cattle are plenty.

The highway has recently been upgraded and is quite pleasant until we reach detours where it is still under construction. Here the roads are sandy and therefore full of ruts and holes. It is quite the rock and roll experience. Justin says it is an African massage however we feel it is more like a beating. A couple of times I was airborne about 6 inches off my seat!

After 2 hours of jostling, bouncing and dust we arrive at the Tarangire Park Gate. It takes only a few minutes to get our passes and before long we say so long to the adorable monkeys hanging about and start on our safari.

Within minutes we spot a herd of wildebeest and zebra. We are all excited and stand up to take photos out of the roof. A little further along we spot osterriches and Jim’s fave, Tembos, or elephants. They are so close to us! More zebras, wildebeest, a family of mongoose – they are adorable and make the cutest sounds – impala, monkeys and tons of elephants.

This park is over 1250 square miles and has 4×4 trails everywhere. Justin knew his way around however the 3 of us were lost, and we didn’t care. We were in our glory watching for animals.

We had our picnic lunch made by Ziggy’s cook, Antonio, while watching elephants, giraffe and the most beautifully coloured starlings. Lunch finished we are off again to see what we can see.

We find a huge herd of zebras and wildebeest – Justin tells us that the zebras hang around the wildebeest at the water holes. They wait to see if there is any danger and if nothing attacks the wildebeest, then the zebras drink. Pretty clever. Mingling in with the zebras are several families of baboon, and some very cute little ones.

We drive on and finally there they are, Simbas (lions), a pride of 6 including a male. There are only 2 other Land Cruisers and the 3 of us watch for the longest time. The zebras come around behind us with one of the staying behind as if on duty. Several of them start calling out to warn the rest of the herd which is at the river drinking. Their call is almost like a dog bark. Finally the lionesses start to move and walk right in front of the vehicles in front of us. Then the male comes out and they all rest once again. We speak in hushed voices as our cameras are clicking like crazy. All of a sudden they start moving behind us so the drivers quickly turn around to keep up with them. One of the younger lionesses jumps the gun and starts a mad chase. Justin is driving like like a mad man to keep up. Within minutes we see a warthog literally running for its life and the lion missing out. What excitement! We followed them for a little while longer and then they turned back to sit in the afternoon sun.

We carry on and see 2 male impala fighting for territory while the females curiously look on, more baboons and herds and herds of elephants from small babies to big bulls. Just as we about to leave we came across one only 3 feet from us eating a bush alongside the road. He just watched us as we took photo after photo of him. Only minutes later we see more giraffes so close to the road, we are in our glory – we can’t believe the number and variety of animals we have seen today. So many that we don’t even bother picking up our cameras anymore  – oh it’s just another elephant!  Ha ha

The 3 of us dozed as we made our way back to Arusha and the Snow Crest. John and Livingston greet us and it is so good to see them. Everything is set for our Kili climb tomorrow and we are excited.

It has been a busy day so we have a bite to eat and head for bed early. What a great day!!